With such a focus on the tranquil surround of Lower Campscott, you might be forgiven for believing that landscapes like these have been unchanged for centuries. Vibrant hedgerows and rolling hills give the impression of stillness, but beneath that tranquil surface lies a rebellious history, shaped by smugglers, secret paths and contraband passed from shore to field under cover of darkness. Today we thought it would be fun to delve a little into that past not just for entertainment, but perhaps to provide a little holiday inspiration for those interested in North Devon history.
We’ll begin in Ilfracombe. In the 18th and early 19th centuries, the coastline around Ilfracombe and beyond became a hotspot for smuggling. High taxes on goods like tea, brandy, and tobacco turned otherwise honest farmers and fishermen into enterprising lawbreakers. Hidden coves, winding lanes, and isolated barns made North Devon the perfect place to land and stash illegal cargo – often with the quiet support of entire communities.
Ilfracombe’s harbour was once rife with smugglers slipping ashore under cover of darkness. A local legend tells of a secret tunnel leading from the beach to a farmhouse on the outskirts of town. Allegedly used to transport barrels of brandy and crates of French silk inland, the tunnel has long since been sealed.
Just west of Ilfracombe lies Lee Bay, a secluded cove known for shipwrecks and salvaging. In the late 1700s, a vessel known as The Hope ran aground here during rough seas. Her crew reportedly buried their cargo – silks, spirits, and spices – beneath an orchard before vanishing inland. Some claim the goods were never recovered.
Further east along the coast, the steep cliffs of Lynmouth made for dramatic landings – and perfect cover. In 1802, revenue officers chased a suspicious boat toward the shore, only to see it vanish without a trace. Days later, barrels of brandy were mysteriously discovered in haylofts, barns, and pigsties across the nearby hills. No one knew anything, of course – but many remembered a sudden abundance of festive spirits in the weeks that followed.
In the inland village of Berrynarbor, several 18th-century farmhouses still feature old stone cellars with curious bricked-off sections and sealed trapdoors.
One such home belonged to a known smuggler tried in Barnstaple, though no conviction was ever secured. Local lore suggests the entire village turned a blind eye, hiding barrels beneath floorboards and hayricks until it was safe to sell them on. The cellars remain today as quiet reminders of a time when secrecy was survival.
The village of Mortehoe near Woolacombe was once a strategic lookout point – not just for coastguards, but for smugglers too. It’s said that locals would light small fires or hang lanterns on the headlands to guide incoming smuggling boats to safe landing spots. These were known as “silent signals,” warning of danger or indicating the coast was clear. In one well-documented case from the early 1800s, customs officers were misled by a decoy fire near Bull Point while smugglers landed their goods safely two coves south.
North Devon’s farms and footpaths may seem peaceful now, but the past is never far beneath your feet. Whether you’re wandering an old coast path or crossing a windswept field, you might just be following in the footsteps of a smuggler. Look closely and you’ll see signs everywhere: a hollow-sounding barn floor, a hedgerow path that leads nowhere on the map, or the name of a cove that hints at midnight dealings.
If you’re excited about exploring an area so rich with history, why not check out our availability page and start planning your North Devon adventure today?